Strange title I know but if I was Catholic this would be in part a confession.

The blog I write below is in fact a sort of re-creation of the next stage of our tour – from notes. We did it but I have to be honest and say it happened a while back and I have been waylaid with other chores since my return so I have now the benefit of hindsight and Wikipaedia to assist me.
Nevertheless, I continue the great journey forthwith – and of course for your delectation and consideration.

Day 5 – Ljubljana to Budapest.
You may think I am obsessed with the temperature but living in the UK anything over 25C is a heatwave of epic proportion.
So when we wake up to 28C I think you will find it is a very British obsession of one-upmanship.
My weather is better than yours – and of course so is my penis but perhaps we should take this preoccupation no further. Anyhow the weather was outrageously good – not a cloud in the sky and with humidity at over 32% – with a chance of hot moving into fucking hot with a good possibility of sticky – mmmm!
So out of Ljubljana and ahead to Maribor – home of the chewy sweets.
We approach the start of the Alps and pass close by to the source of the Amazon – the Slovenians of course keep it very quiet otherwise they would have to share the gold they mine from the shafts under the Mercedes and KIA dealerships on Tito Ceska (in consortium with the Aztec Herzegovinians).
Stopping for diesel at the Hip Hop Armando checks the oil again for signs of balsamic vinegar – we used some on the tomatoes last night and he fears some transferral may have taken place.

With Cestminas every few kilometres the vijneta earns its keep.
Once again – have I said this before? – Slovenia is verdant and so well maintained. Is it a slight fallback to the days of Communism – a little bit of governmental fear never hurt anyone did it?
Well at least it seems to have worked well here. Perhaps we in the UK could learn a thing or two from these crazee Slovenes…..encourage the unemployed into public works; get some pride back onto the streets. Roads are funded by the EU and are well maintained.
Laybys are pristine.
Little villages pass by, perched on hills a la Switzerland. Cute churches (is that going to get me excommunicated by calling them cute?), spires covered in gold with crosses clearly visible from the road. Prime timber lines the hills that rise up on either side.
Around 20 miles of tunnels lay ahead as one leads to another and then another – a perfect scene from any great disaster movie – but it does give some respite from the constant sun, and of course it plays havoc with the Reactolite lenses in my glasses!
The road itself is a dream to drive – not dissimilar to a piece of road from Jerusalem down to Latrun interchange. Don’t bomb it – which of course you won’t as the car you are in is likely to be a pre-cherished work of rust. Savour each work of modern engineering as you reappear at the light from the end of the tunnel – imagine you are in a Discovery Channel documentary narrated by Chris Barrie or Steven Fry. Watch the rerun on Dave just before Sexcetera or Top Gear.
As we pass by the now ever increasing acreage of woodland I cannot help thinking how easy it would be to dispose of a body. This is of course not the first time I have voiced this question and Armando shifts uncomfortably in the driver’s seat. Well it is good to keep him on his toes!

We drive past Rimske Toplice – a thermal spa town dating back to the Romans occupation of the area – although the thermals have been soothing the bunions of OAP Slovenian corvas for much longer.We are now in a strange area of multi-national vegetation – trees from Canada, Japan California and apparently Basingstoke!
The Romans enjoyed the benefits and healing power on the right bank of the Savinja River where there are still thermal springs under Stražnik (655 m), rising from triassic dolomite rock cracks in Rimske Toplice (these cracks refer to rocks and not corva anatomy). Monuments and sacrificial altars devoted to goddesses and nymphs as thanksgiving for the convalescence of ancient guests, found between 1769 and 1845, provide evidence of this. There are ancient cemeteries and a necropolis all signposted and well worth a visit if you find the time. From the road you do not completely realise the extent and beauty within one kilometre of the road but I tell you it now so you don’rt miss it.
The spas are first mentioned in written documents dating to 1486, the Aquilea Document. The spas were owned by Habsburgs for 30 years and then by the Counts of Celje (1456) together with the Laško Estate. Through history the baths owners changed numerous times. The first turnabout in the spa’s history was in 1840, when the former wholesale merchant from Trieste Gustav Adolf Uhlich bought the spas in the name of his wife Amalia because he was healed with the healing power of the thermal water there. This was when what had been a modest health resort was turned into the modern spas and given the name Rimske Toplice (‘Roman Spas’).
For the needs of the spa, two large wells were regulated and named Amalia’s Spring (38.4 °C) and Roman Spring (36.3 °C). When the Sophia Manor was built, the number of rooms increased from 38 to over 200. On the even plateau with a chestnut tree promenade there was a Spa Church on one side and an Orchestra Pavilion on the other side. In the afternoon the orchestra played out in the open, on evenings in the Spa salon – apparently in their Speedos. There was a billiard room, a tennis court in a nearby wood and on a steep meadow a roofed bowling alley. Because the Vienna–Trieste railroad passed Rimske Toplice after 1848; more guests visited the place, mainly the hoi-poloi from Trieste, Hungary, Zagreb, or even the United States.
The British princess and Prussian heiress Victoria (daughter of Queen Victoria and Robbie Williams), stayed in Rimske Toplice in 1879, and many distinguished guests had the habit of planting exotic trees in the spa’s park, so even nowadays you can see huge sequoias, Canadian hemlocks, Japanese hloes, cypresses, Californian cedars, Basingstoke willows and other interesting species.
Russian prisoners of war built a 2 km promenade through the forest (The Roman Path) during the First World War. During the Second World War the Spa was occupied by wounded German soldiers, then after 1945 the Yugoslav Peoples’ Army used the spa for healing and rehabilitation of its soldiers.
The spas have never been fully utilized by common Slovenian people – but Duckie Ralliers are specifically welcomed. Although the Uhlich Family were good masters and turned the humble bath into spas of world reputation, they dominating over the local population. Also when Yugoslav Peoples’ Army managed the spas, they were more or less inaccessible to the local people.
From 1991 onwards, after the Yugoslav Peoples’ Army left, attempts were made to revive Rimske Toplice. Finally, on 17 November 2005 the thermal spas once again opened their doors to guests, with the Medical Rehabilitation Centre aiding the revival of the town’s fortunes. Either way it is worth a visit.
The aroma of the countryside permeates the car as we pass supper several times. Cows think they are so clever pooing standing up – not so clever when they are served up with a side of pommes frites and a nice side salad which I will leave. Apologies to the veggie readers but as a die-in-the-wool carnivore I can’t help it – even Armando looks appetising at 6.45pm when we still have 200km to go (because I have insisted on visiting the thermal spas) and only one piece of chewing gum left between the two of us.

Soon we pass by signs for Celje where Bojan Šrot is the Mayor.
Celje is the third largest town in Slovenia. It is a regional centre of Lower Styria and the administrative seat of the Urban Municipality of Celje (Slovene: Mestna občina Celje). The town of Celje is located under Upper Celje Castle (407 m) at the confluence of the Savinja, Ložnica, and Voglajna rivers in the lower Savinja Valley. It lies 241 m above mean sea level (MSL). Now you can find it on your TomasTomas although you can’t miss it as you drive along the main motorway. It is a very pretty town – there is a great little cathedral and a monastery. Not a lot of shopping unless you like to take some serious pates and pies with you on the journey. We did not see any Lidls but they must be hiding behind a tree somewhere.

The discussion moves on in the car to where it usually does at this time of the day – flatulence. In actuality we discuss the relative merits of public farting and of course passing the buck.

We move smoothly onto “funniest scene in a movie”. Armando loves the bit in “National Lampoon’s Summer Vacation” when Chevy and his family finally get to the Walley World theme park only to find it closed – alongside a dead spiteful Aunt Edna. He loves the bit where they go off road and land in the middle of the Grand Canyon. Watch it at your peril!

My favourite scene is the chest wax in the “40 year old Virgin”. Armando has not seen it so I describe it as best I can. We laugh until a little pee comes out.
The roads are handled perfectly by the KIA and we pass many new cars and not a lot of old cars. One car that does get past us is a pristine red Aston Martin DB6 (right hand drive) bombing it until he gets held up by a Clarkson special. Yes two (TWO) Dutch caravans driving side by side and blocking the road for all who want to drive over 70kmh. Both drivers are puffing on a pipe and have impressive beards but seriously, what are they doing trying to overtake like that?
Finally we overtake and the DB6 disappears towards Maribor Centre. We continue past the Hotel Kacar – famous for its open-air colonic irrigation, and of course its roses, and then plough onwards past the sewage processing plant and the methane repository.

Maribor is is the second largest city in Slovenia with 106,308 inhabitants as of 2008. The city lies on the river Drava at the meeting point of the Pohorje mountain, the Drava Valley, the Drava Plain, and the Kozjak and Slovenske Gorice hill ranges. Maribor’s coat of arms features a white dove flying downwards above a white castle with two towers and a portcullis on a red shield. Now you can recognise it if you are confronted by a coat of arms in a pub quiz.
Popular tourist sites in Maribor include the 12th century Gothic-style cathedral and the town hall constructed in the Renaissance fashion. The castle dates from the 15th century. Not exactly a rave town but pretty nonetheless.
There is the University of Maribor, established in 1975, and the oldest grapevine in the world, called Stara trta, which is more than 400 years old. Once you have visited these things it should be time to get back in the car – it should be possible to complete the tour in around 67minutes.
Maribor is also home to NK Maribor, who participated in the UEFA Champions League in the 1999-2000 season.
(For all the Scots I will definitely NOT mention Hibs being beaten on 5 August by Maribor – if you do not want to know the score please look away now….6-2 on aggregate)

Marcos Tavares opens scoring for Maribor
If you are lucky to be in Maribor during the skiing season then visit the skiing centre of Mariborsko Pohorje, situated on the outskirts of the city on the slopes of the Pohorje mountain range, which hosts women’s slalom and giant slalom races for the Alpine Skiing World Cup known as Zlata lisica (The Golden Fox) every January.
Every June, the two-week Festival Lent (named after the waterfront district called Lent) is held, with hundreds of musical, theatrical and other events.
Maribor was chosen as European Capital of Culture 2012 alongside with Guimarães, Portugal. Maribor will be the host city of the 2013 Winter Universiade. Now you know everything about Maribor so try to visit if you can find the time.
We didn’t this time but have been before so I like to spread the joy forthwith.
Soon we see signs for Budapest as we enter another set of tunnels through the Maribor Alps. We hit the A5 – passing the Cerkvenjak Muck Spreading Festival. We decide not to stop and take part as it looks a little shitty.
The A5 has a 110kmh speed limit whilst the other main roads have a 130kmh limit. This of course does not stop Armando taking us to 142kmh all the way. We pass a whole series of Dutch and Belgian caravans – these guys get everywhere!

At just around 60km outside of Budapest we take a sightseeing detour to Lake Balaton. This is in the Transdanubian region of Hungary, is the largest lake in Central Europe, and one of its foremost tourist destinations. As Hungary is landlocked, it is often affectionately called the “Hungarian Sea”. The Zala River provides the largest inflow of water to the lake, and the canalized Sió is the only outflow. Hungary has a population of only 10 million and it sometimes feels like everyone is by the lake.
Today it is very hot and tons and tons of Hungarian flesh is on show – some appetizing and some NOT. We drive around the whole lakeside – we are looking for different venues for our Duckiefest – and we pass through the major resorts around the lake (Siófok, Keszthely and Balatonfüred). Siófok is known as the “Party Capital of Hungary”, and attracts many young party goers in summer due to its numerous large clubs. Keszthely is the site of the famous Festetics Palace and Balatonfüred is a historical bathing town home to the annual Anna Ball.

The average water temperature during the summer is 25°C, which makes bathing and swimming possible. Most of the beaches consist of either grass, rocks or the silty sand that also makes up most of the bottom of the lake. Many resorts have artificial sandy beaches and all beaches have step access to the water. Other tourist attractions include sailing, fishing and other water sports, as well as visiting the countryside and hills; wineries on the north coast and night life on the south shore. The Tihany Peninsula is an historical district. Badacsony is a famous volcanic mountain and wine growing region as well as a lakeside resort. The lake is almost completely surrounded by bike lanes so there are hundreds of scantily clad bikers circling the lake – contributing to the water levels with their profuse sweating.
Although the peak season at the lake is the summer, Balaton is also popular during the winter, when visitors go ice-fishing or even skate, sledge or ice-sail on the lake, if it freezes over.

Balaton was served by Sármellék International Airport until 2009 when Ryan Air pulled out. However, the airport is still manned by a full staff and although a little overgrown, still looks like it is waiting for the next flight to arrive. Perhaps no-one told them about the change in schedules.
Driving through village after village , the supermarkets and goulash restaurants fly past – the only thing I cannot see is the lake! Finally, as we round the bottom of the lake, water starts to show itself and we climb for a view of the whitish water and the thousands of people swimming in the waters (urine city). Speedos at full stretch show a little bit more to us than they should but soon we stop for lunch at a beautiful little restaurant for some catfish and chips. As Armando has told me to lose a stone in 3 weeks or he’ll sleep with my wife and move in with Mum, I leave the chips to him and sup on some sparkling mineral water from the lake. Don’t ask what makes it fizzy! Armando felt a little guilty so forwent his usual Magnum Maximum.


Back on the road we start moving back into tourist territory – passing a museum, an old church and a motorbike collection. Soon we get messages from TomasTomas that we need to get a ferry. For some reason it consistently allows us to find the ferries of the country and sure enough here we are again, boarding a ferry bound for the pother side of the Lake and of course Budapest. Cost Ft2450 (although the woman did not acknowledge an change to be given for the Ft3000 proferred by Armando!) – time of crossing – 6 minutes. We meet a couple of guys who want to put on a mobile poker tournament so we will start thinking about that.
Soon we are back on the M7 heading into Budapest and a meeting with Lazlo. Mickey has apparently had a small operation on his hand so is in Vienna but Lazlo can’t wait to see us. It is now 36C and finally we get onto the main road into Budapest. It has been a long day and despite a couple of wrong turns we are soon on the right road to Szetendre and the Pen Factory (and of course the car museum). When you make the journey, look out for the old Routemaster bus outside of the MacDonalds. It is really incongruous.
At the factory gates we pull up, get out and wait for Lazlo to arrive.
He is really excited to see us and immediately lays out some plans for us to “waste” the weekend (I add here that this is “waste” in the best and most positive way possible!).
First a quick mooch around the various outbuildings filled with Mickey’s collection. I have attached a few pics and more to come.


Armstrong Whitley 18HP

Wartburg 311 Cabrio

Sophia Loren’s Nuttley Warner Rolls Royce Silver Cloud

Mercedes 300S Adenauer

1926 Lancia

Berger PAX Transport Museum Main Garage

BMW 2000
We then get to see Lazlo’s passion – classic car racing.
He is constructing a Lancia Fulvia which will be stupendous when it is ready for the racing season (which is very big in Hungary) in September / October.

Walter and my purple crocs
His mechanic Ferenc is a miracle worker and will have built a car which will make Lazlo and his co-driver Petr, very competitive. The yard was guarded by a dachshund called Walter who took a shine to Armando’s leg.

Lazlo’s Fulvia

At Lazlo’s mechanic in Budapest
We end the day at our favourite spa hotel on the banks of the Danube (E100 for the two of us – including dinner and breakfast – and all the mosquitoes you can accommodate!). Tomorrow will be special but more of that later.
And so to sleep once more – dreaming of being a bum cushion for Sophia Loren, resplendent in her Rolls Royce!
